July 2018 Feature - Dermaplaning 101 - Why You Should Try It

In professional skin care, we are lucky to have so many forms of exfoliation to keep pores clean and promote quicker skin cell turnover for younger looking skin. There are three types of exfoliation: chemical, manual and mechanical. Chemical exfoliation, of course, is referring to peels, whereas manual exfoliation includes the use of an abrasive such as a scrub. There are a couple of mechanical exfoliation methods that are used today, one of the most popular being dermaplaning, which will be reviewed in this article.

Cell Turnover

The goal of exfoliation has always been to remove dead skin cells and encourage cell turnover. Skin cells turn over every three to four weeks in young skin. With age, this process moves at a slower rate, making monthly exfoliation more important. Exfoliation “tricks” the skin into turning over at a faster rate than it normally would.

To trick the skin, a controlled injury (exfoliation) is created. When the skin is injured, new skin cells are sent to replace the old ones, and collagen and elastin are produced. Loss of collagen and elastin is the biggest contributor to wrinkles. While collagen can be put back into the skin, elastin is too big of a molecule. So, with all the methods of exfoliation that exist, what makes dermaplaning so special?

What is Dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning is a lot like microder­mabrasion, another popular mechanical exfoliation technique. Both mechanically exfoliate the skin, but dermaplaning also removes the vellus hair from the skin. In this method of exfoliation, a sterile, surgical scalpel is used to complete the process. It is definitely not as scary as it sounds. However, this method of exfoliation should be done by a licensed professional and definitely not at home. While the scalpel used is in a way “shaving your face,” you can think of it as shaving your skin. The technician will use small upward strokes around the entire face to remove any impurities, clogged pores and facial hair.

Benefits of Dermaplaning

Dermaplaning has numerous benefits, and this list will show you some to get you, or potentially your clients, on the dermaplaning train.

1. Cell regeneration. As mentioned earlier, dermaplaning will trigger the cell regeneration process to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

2. Hyperpig­mentation. Dermaplaning will exfoliate the top layer of your skin, taking off dead skin cells. Therefore, it can help lighten pigmented spots.

3. Immediate results. Other exfoliation processes sometimes take more time to show the results, but dermaplaning shows immediate results.

4. Safety. Dermaplaning is safe for everyone and there is no downtime involved.

5. Smooths rough skin. Dermaplaning is especially beneficial for people with rough, dry skin. The scalpel is effective in smoothing out skin and evening skin tone.

6. Hair removal. If clients are using this for hair removal, it is fine if they only have peach fuzz or vellus hair. It easily removes this hair without any problems.

7. Product penetration. Dermaplaning is good for letting products such as peels, strong serums or skin remedies penetrate deeply into the skin, as results are improved after exfoliation.

8. Mildness. Dermaplaning is a gentle form of exfoliation, and it can be more gentle than a peel or microder­mabrasion for sensitive clients. It is also great for new clients who want to start with gentle anti-aging treatments before jumping into more.

9. Frequency. Dermaplaning is safe to do every three to four weeks, which is the target range you would want to get those cells turning over faster.

10. Catalyst. This is a great catalyst to deeper exfoliation procedures, as it preps one’s skin gently rather than harshly.

11. Makeup. Clients will notice that their makeup will go on better after a dermaplaning service.

Contrain­dications

The only time one would not want to dermaplane is if there is pustular acne involved. The surgical scalpel could easily rupture one of the pustules, and the bacteria could then spread across the face.

Anyone with hirsutism or excessive facial hair growth may want to rely on waxing, laser or electrolysis for the hair removal, as these forms remove hair from the root and not at the skin level like dermaplaning.

Give It A Try

With dermaplaning, you can’t go wrong. It safely takes off the top layer of skin and hair. I love this treatment, and I hope this article will make you want to also try it.

“Source - 11 Reasons to Get Behind Dermaplaning by Maxie Frericks, LE | SkinInc Magazine, June 8 2018”

— https://www.SkinInc.com/treatments/facial/exfoliating/11-Reasons-to-Get-Behind-Dermaplaning-484712791.html

Exposing Common Skin Care Myths

Trying to scrub away acne -

Acne is not a hygiene problem; it's a hormonal issue. Excessively cleaning your face won't get rid of acne. Instead of attempting to scrub your pimple-prone skin into submission, wash it gently with a foaming face wash that's designed to lift off dirt without irritating skin. And if you do feel compelled to enlist a scrub, use it no more than once a week, choosing a product that has even-sized, round beads, not rough particles.

Sunscreen -

The big mistake women make is trusting the sunscreen label that reads 'all day protection. The truth is that no sunscreen lasts more than four hours; you're kidding yourself if you think you can put it on once and forget about it. Regular sunscreen use is even more important if you are treating your face with Retin-A or alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids, or getting peels or microder­mabrasion—all of which can leave skin more sensitive to the sun's ultraviolet rays.

Alcohol -

Consider alternating drinks with water. Drinking alcohol causes dehydration and dilated blood vessels both of which make skin look tired and unhealthy. Try to drink one glass of water per alcoholic drink consumed -- this will help skin stay hydrated.

Stress -  

Stress causes your body to go into survival mode by pumping adrenaline to heighten the senses. While this is healthy if you are in danger, prolonged periods of stress can take a toll on your skin. When the body is in survival mode, the most vital organs like the heart, lungs and brain work overtime. The skin, a less vital organ, becomes deprived of nutrients which eventually affects its appearance. Combat stress by incorporating relaxation techniques into your routine like yoga, meditation and deep breathing.

Not hydrating your skin enough - 

Because you think you don't need it. Drinking eight glasses of water a day, and applying a moisturizing cream to your face regularly can save you the headache of dealing with a cracked and sensitive skin. (Note - for normal to dry skin folks)

Sleeping with makeup on -

This will leave your skin's pores clogged and prevent it from breathing. No matter how tired you feel clean your face before going to bed.

Using harsh cleansers -

Using harsh cleansers to clean your skin will strip away the natural oils that protect it from dirt, pollution and other factors that can easily damage your skin. Do your skin a favor and use mild cleaners, they're much gentler and still effective.

Applying your usual facial moisturizer to your "under-eye" area is really harsh -

This area is the most delicate area in your face and it's where fine lines will appear first, so having a specialized eye cream is a must after the age 25.

Lack of sleep can affect how your skin looks dramatically, leading to dark circles, and dull looking skin - 

Get at least eight hours of sleep each night and you'll wake up to a much more fresh looking skin.

Thinking that "more is better" -

When it comes to your skin, more is actually worse, too much washing, too much cream, too much scrub can totally damage your skin.

Washing your face at the wrong time - 

Always wash your face after you rinse out your hair products and conditioner in the shower, never before. Many conditioners contain pore-clogging isopropyl myristate and other hair products often contain coconut oil—both are common acne-causing ingredients that you don't want to leave on your skin.

Thinking that what you eat will only affect your body weight, not your skin, in fact what you eat shows directly on your face - 

Eating too much sweets and fatty food will leave your skin looking unhealthy, a healthy diet is very important for a healthy younger looking face.

Not using a retinoid. 

Retinol, a form of vitamin A, is the only topical ingredient proven not only to prevent lines and wrinkles but to minimize the ones you already have. Past the age of 30, Barnett recommends seeing a dermatologist for a higher-concentration prescription retinoid, but there are also many great over-the-counter creams that contain lower concentr­ations of retinol.

Myth #1: Your skin will age just like your mom's.

The reality: Sure, genetics play a role in how your skin looks, from the size of your pores to its texture and color. But banking on aging like your mom or grandmother is a big mistake. Habits make more of a difference than genetics. The biggest culprit in aging is sun exposure, and your drinking, smoking, stress, and sleep habits play a role, too. Skipping sunscreen, imbibing too often, coping ineffectively with stress, and sleeping on your side or stomach can all exacerbate and create wrinkles, adult acne, and texture changes.

Myth #2: The SPF number tells you how much protection you're getting from the sun.

The reality: There are two types of damaging sun rays: UVA, which are responsible for aging the skin; and UVB, which are responsible for burning it. The SPF number on a bottle of sunscreen only gives a guide for how much UVB protection the product offers. It doesn't tell you whether or not the product protects from UVA rays (which are also responsible for melanoma). All sunscreens protect from UVB rays. To fully protect yourself, however, look for a product that contains UVA-blocking ingredients, too, such as zinc or avobenzone (Parsol 1789), and reapply often.

Myth #3: You need a separate sunscreen and moisturizer.

The reality: Sunscreens already add moisture to your skin because of their ingredients. So if you have oily skin, you may want to skip the separate moisturizer. For those who prefer to wear both products, apply the moisturizer first; allow to dry, then apply the sunscreen. Either way, be sure to wear sunscreen daily: Every day is sun day, even if it's cloudy or overcast.

Myth #4: Most of the sun damage you incur happens before age 18.

The reality: Recent studies have shown that by age 18, you've only accumulated 18–23% of the sun damage you'll incur over a lifetime. That means that there's still time to protect your skin from the sun and put off sun-induced aging. Do this by using sunscreen and products with sun-damage reversing ingredients such as vitamin C and retinol.

Myth #5: Cosmetic creams can turn back time for your skin.

The reality: There's no such thing as a miracle in a bottle. As you age, your facial bones shrink, you lose fat under the skin, and your skin begins to become loose. Rubbing on a cream isn't going to address these things. What's more, cosmetic skincare products cannot, by FDA law, include medications, which are the only things that truly change the structure of the skin. What cosmetic creams can do: Temporarily plump up and hydrate your skin. For the best chance at turning back time, see your dermatologist for medications or procedures.

Source:  http://www.skininc.com/treatments/facial/antiaging/Exposing-Common-Skin-Care-Myths-244907831.html

Author - Susan Stuart is a board-certified California dermatologist (La Jolla, CA) who empathizes with her female patients who feel they are doing everything right and still are unsatisfied with the appearance of their skin. What’s more, she often sees patients who feel they are doomed to bad skin based on myths that “you get the genes your parents have.” She seeks to set the record straight on what really does sabotage the skin and dispels the most common myths mothers or the media have passed on to their daughters.

April Feature - Guide to Sun Care Facts & Fallacies

Arm yourself with knowledge about sun damage, the importance of sun protection and dispel the many rumors and fallacies.

FALLACY: “I don’t need a sunscreen; I don’t get that much sun. I always wear sunscreen when I go to the beach.”

FACT: Most of the sun damage that occurs in our lifetime is from ambient sun exposure, not deliberate tanning. Walking to the mailbox, driving in the car, talking to your neighbor in the yard, and sitting by a window at work—all of these seemingly innocent scenarios expose the skin to damaging ultraviolet (UV) rays. It is cumulative sun exposure that causes eventual damage. Sun exposure at age 22 causes wrinkles and skin cancer at age 40 or 50. Every time you have unprotected exposure, damage is accumulating that will eventually show up as sagging, wrinkles, liver spots, and skin cancer.

FALLACY: “I want to get some sun, so I will apply sunscreen at the beach if I start to turn red.”

FACT: By the time you turn red, damage has already been done. Redness is the immune system in the blood investigating why the skin is being injured. Applying sunscreen on top of hot, burned skin is not a good idea! Apply your sunscreen at least 20 minutes before going into the sun. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide sunscreens work immediately. Others take some time to take effect.

FALLACY: “I don’t wear sunscreen every day, but my makeup has an SPF.”

FACT: While it’s good to use cosmetics that contain sunscreen, the amount of protection can vary with the amount of makeup applied. No matter the SPF in your foundation, it’s important to apply broad-spectrum sunscreen under it all.

FALLACY: “I hate wearing a sunscreen on top of my moisturizer. It feels so heavy, and I hate smelling like a coconut!”

FACT: With today’s modern sunscreen and formulation technology, everyday moisturizers should contain broad-spectrum SPF-15 or higher sunscreen protection. Sunscreen protection is the number-one reason for using a day cream. There is no reason to have to wear two products or smell tropical! A good day product can have sunscreen protection and still be an excellent moisturizer. Every esthetician should be able to match a good sunscreen moisturizer to each client’s needs. For example, a client with oily skin needs a matte sunscreen with more hydrator than emollient. A client with dry or aging skin needs a sunscreen that will also contain ingredients like ceramides to help with dryness and make the skin look younger.

FALLACY: “I tan easily. I don’t need sunscreen.”

FACT: While it is true that darker skin is less likely to burn and more likely to tan from sun exposure, this does not mean the skin is not being damaged. There are plenty of deeply tanned people walking around with wrinkles and skin cancers. Continual exposure to UV rays causes cumulative and lasting damage to the skin structures, elastin and collagen fibrils, and pigment. The most dangerous part is that it can cause damage to the cellular DNA, which can result in skin cancers, including malignant melanoma. This can occur regardless of ethnicity or skin tone.

THE FINAL FACTS

Sun damage is the number-one cause of skin aging, the number one cause of liver spots and skin blotchiness, and is actually the number-one cause of cancer, as there are more types of skin cancers than any other form of cancer. It’s so important that you love your sunscreen. If you love it, your’ll wear it and stay protected from damaging UV rays. And, your skin will look better, younger longer!

“Source - Save Some Skin. Your guide to sun care facts & fallacies, by Mark Lees, Skin Deep Magazine, May/June 2017, Associated Skin Care Professionals”

February Feature - Feed Your Skin

Reducing wrinkles probably has more to do with what you put in your body than what you put on it. Premature skin aging, characterized by wrinkles and atypical pigmentation, is largely a result of excess free-radical activity in the body. The bad news is that you’re constantly in contact with these negative elements, thanks to smoke, pollution, and ultraviolet rays, which all damage skin cell DNA. Free-radical production is also dependent on your lifestyle, with deep-fried, processed food and stress increasing the production of these toxic molecules.

Thankfully, the way forward isn’t all doom and gloom. It is possible to reduce the damage done by free-radical species by increasing your intake of antioxidants. Antioxidants are naturally occurring substances in whole foods that provide protection against these free-radical effects. You’ll find them mostly in fruits, vegetables, spices, and herbs—another reason to include more ingredients such as kale, berries, and turmeric to your diet. While there are too many specific antioxidants to count, these options are most potent against skin damage.

• Carotenoids: Studies have found that beta-carotene foods have both anti-inflammatory and skincancer protective effects.

Best food sources:  Butternut squash, carrots, and spinach.

• Polyphenols: This is the antioxidant that made wine a health food (or at least a better choice than the margarita). In addition to promoting skin health, polyphenols can decrease the risk of dementia and heart disease.

Best food sources:  Coffee, dark chocolate, red wine, and tea.

• Vitamin C: An essential component in the body’s production of collagen and a potent antioxidant that can help rejuvenate aged and photo damaged skin.

Best food sources:  Bell peppers, citrus, red cabbage, and strawberries.

• Vitamin E: Also known as a skin superfood, vitamin E helps stop cell damage that can lead to wrinkles and skin cancer.

Best food sources: Hazelnuts, peanut butter, and sunflower seeds.

Source: Antiage with Antioxidants: Protect your skin cells with natural food sources, by Alex Caspero, Skin Deep Magazine January/February 2017 Associated Skin Care Professionals

October Feature - Is what you're eating causing your Rosacea?

Hey friends, I found this article and am intrigued by the possibilities for helping the symptoms of Rosacea. When you see your facial skin respond with any of these symptoms, give great consideration into what you've ingested,  both food and drink.    Sincerely, Marla

"According to the textbooks, rosacea is still not fully understood. There are classifications of the condition, but an interesting, but often ignored, association is small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (SIBO), which, in one study, occurred in half of the rosacea cases. This study directs us to the real problem, which is inflammation in the digestive tract.

There are many different causes stemming from digestive disturbances that result in rosacea. Knowing the internal source makes rosacea treatable, in most cases. Rather than resorting to soothing remedies that do not correct the problem or medications that further damage the skin, it is time to address rosacea holistically and more permanently.

DIGESTIVE DISTURBANCES
The aforementioned SIBO study is the first clue to the real cause of rosacea and digestive disturbances. In fact, rosacea can be isolated to different regions of the gut based on where redness shows up on the skin. This identification should not seem strange since the skin was built from embryonic tissue that connected all of the organs to regions of the skin.

The Tip of the Nose
The tip of the nose shows inflammation of the back of the throat. Sometimes, this inflammation is caused by a bacterial throat infection, but it is usually from hard alcohol hitting the back of the throat. It often takes excessive amounts to reach enough inflammation to show up on the tip of the nose. Rhinophyma is the formation of scar tissue after chronic inflammation.

The Side of the Nose
Rosacea in this area most frequently appears as broken capillaries, but can also present as redness or flaking skin. It is connected to the esophageal sphincter and is damaged most often by acid reflux. This condition can be asymptomatic, but the skin never lies.

Next to the Nose
The stomach can be irritated by a few factors, notably gastritis and H. pylori. The affected area on the skin is about one centimeter wide, but redness can also travel down towards the mouth.

The Mid-Cheek
Rosacea in the mid-cheek occurs about an inch from the nostril and originates from the small intestine. It is often quite red and acneic when the client has SIBO, but the redness can also be associated with ulcers, candida overgrowth, or irritable bowel syndrome.

The Cheekbone, Temples, and Forehead
Rosacea in this area comes from large intestine inflammation that is usually associated with candida overgrowth or irritable bowel syndrome. Redness as a result of large intestine inflammation, can travel up the temple and across the forehead.

Peri Oral Dermatitis
The mouth area reflects the end of the colon and is often associated with constipation. Leaving stool in place for extended periods of time results in toxin reabsorption and inflammation around the mouth. Acne in this area is also common."

“Source: Rosacea Exposed: What They Don’t Teach You - Written by Ben Johnson, M.D./ DERMASCOPE Magazine October 2016
For the entire article -
”

— http://www.dermascope.com/disorders/rosacea-exposed-what-they-don-t-teach-you#.V_fPcSkTBe8.gmail

August Feature - Are You Dehydrated? It's So Hot!!

Dry, dehydrated skin can be a temporary condition or a lifelong concern. Dry skin can be genetically determined or a product of an increasingly stressful lifestyle coupled with continual exposure to the sun, wind and chemicals in the environment. It can also be caused by the use of inappropriate products on the skin: meaning it is extremely important that skin care professionals are highly trained in properly diagnosing dry, dehydrated skin for the most effective treatment and product regimen.

Dry, or dehydrated?

Before addressing the causes, it’s important to know the difference between dry and dehydrated skin.

• Dry skin, generally refers to skin that is lacking in oil

• Dehydrated skin is characterized by lack of moisture in the Stratum Corneum

Even oily skin can experience dehydration. As mentioned, dehydration is a lack of water, not oil. This means oil activity can still be normal or even overactive in dehydrated skin.

 Both dry and dehydrated skin can experience:

• Irritation, inflammation, itchiness and sensitivity

• A feeling of tightness or tautness

• A look or feel of roughness

• Slight to severe flaking and scaling

• Fine lines, severe redness and cracks that can sometimes bleed

 The top three causes of dry, dehydrated skin:

1. Intrinsic Aging: Intrinsic aging is the normal process of physical change over time that’s more about genetics than lifestyle. (Lifestyle-induced aging is known as premature or extrinsic aging.) Sebaceous (oil) gland activity tends to decrease with age, and the skin’s natural hydrators and blood flow to the skin decline over the years.

 2. Weather / Environmental Elements: Prolonged exposure to the sun causes water to evaporate from skin, which is why sunburned skin requires more moisture than unexposed areas. Cold winds, air conditioning units, forced air heating and low temperatures can also dry out skin and contribute to premature aging.

 3. Lifestyle: The trend of fat-free diets can deprive our bodies of skin-friendly Essential Fatty Acids (EFAs). This deficiency can result in chronic itching, dryness, scaling, thinning and can lead to an imbalance in prostaglandins (chemical messengers that do many things, such as control inflammation).

 Excess intake of alcoholic beverages and certain medications (such as nasal decongestants) can also contribute to dry skin or dehydrated skin.

 One of the biggest consequences of dry, dehydrated skin is an increase in sensitivity, as dryness and dehydration are precursors to sensitized skin. Addressing it quickly can help stave off issues of sensitization. However, don’t immediately gravitate to super-emollient cleansers and creams, as emollient products could aggravate dehydrated skin that’s also classified as oily. A thorough skin analysis is your ultimate tool in the successful treatment of this challenging skin condition.

One last note - DRINK lots and lots of water especially during these hot summer months!

Source: The Top Three Causes of Dry, Dehydrated Skin by Dr. Diana Howard;  The International Dermal Institute    

http://www.dermalinstitute.com/us/library/18_article_The_Top_Three_Causes_of_Dry_Dehydrated_Skin.html#.V7CpSIN_SLw.email

June Feature - The Facts About Stem Cells

During treatments, it’s a passion of mine to address the science behind skin care.  From time to time, I bring up the aura surrounding the latest touted miracle ingredient in skin care – Stem Cells.  I found a fantastic overview of the facts and am pleased to share ‘key bites’ with you.  For the entire article, and all sources, I’ll be happy to forward a PDF version via email, or you can read the hard copy at the office.

 '''Stem cells are marketed in skin care products as an antiaging miracle ingredient. Is it true? Can stem cells actually affect the skin when applied topically? This is a science-heavy and somewhat controversial topic.

WHAT IS A STEM CELL?

To start, we need to define what stem cells are and how that may relate to an ingredient calling itself a stem cell. A simple definition comes from Merriam-Webster: “An unspecialized cell capable of perpetuating itself through cell division and having the potential to give rise to differentiated cells with specialized functions.” How the stem cell perpetuates itself is dependent on how the DNA is expressed, which means that different types of organs and tissues are developed based on what the DNA code says. In this same manner, damaged DNA code can cause disease and organ malformation.

WHAT IS THE HYPOTHESIS FOR USING STEM CELLS?

Adult stem cells can be damaged by disease, internal stress, and ultraviolet radiation. The theory is that using lab-created plant or human stem cells can protect and stimulate existing cells to repair the skin. We are born with a limited amount of stem cells, and the goal is to prolong their life and get them to continue the regeneration process (once a stem cell is damaged, it cannot replicate). The regeneration process is accomplished by using extracts such as epidermal growth factors, which have been shown to heal wounds and generate skin growth and repair. Claiming that a product is “using stem cells” is misleading. It’s actually the factors extracted, such as antioxidants, cell-stimulating peptides, enzymes, and growth factors that make the ingredient work. Some skepticism with the performance of these products includes:

 • Stem cells, whether plant or human, must be alive in order to have any effect; using stem cells in a cream is not an effective way to keep these cells alive.2

• Stem cells must be delivered deeply into the skin to be effective; this process turns a cosmetic into a drug.

• Stem cell extracts, such as enzymes and growth factors, are sensitive to temperature and are hard to stabilize in a cosmetic formulation.

 For every argument that this ingredient works, there is one that says it will not. There is a lack of peer-reviewed in vivo (on live humans) studies that support the efficacy of this ingredient.

WHERE IN THE SKIN ARE ADULT STEM CELLS LOCATED?

Living adult stem cells are found in the bulb of the hair follicle and within the skin’s basal layer and dermis. For a skin care product application, the focus is on epidermal stem cells only. Dermal stem cell treatments require deep penetration into the skin which can cause unforeseen complications.

PLANT VERSUS HUMAN STEM CELL INGREDIENTS

The most recognized stem cell ingredient used in skin care products is the stem cell of the Swiss Uttwiler Spätlauber apple. The efficacy of this ingredient was studied in vitro (cells in a petri dish), as well as in a small cohort of users. The study’s outcome showed there was an increase in the lifespan of mesenchymal stem cells within a controlled environment, and this ingredient has been widely used and promoted. The beauty of these plant stem cell ingredients is the ability to protect the skin, but the ability to directly affect stem cells within a live human by topically applying these ingredients has not been proven.

Many estheticians who use and sell these products report seeing benefits from them, but the question of efficacy remains. It could simply be that a very good product formulation with the correct delivery system is improving the skin, but claiming that stem cells are strengthened is impossible to prove.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Harnessing the power of stem cells in a therapeutic medical treatment has the potential to cure disease and regrow organs. Studies are ongoing, and possibilities for the regenerative effects of stem cells on skin are a future possibility. As for the success of stem cells as a primary topical antiaging ingredient — well, the jury is still out.''' 

Source; Fountain Of Youth? Stem cells; an overview of the newest anti-aging miracle ingredient by Susanne Schmaling, Skin Deep Magazine, May/June 2016, Associated Skin Care Professionals

April Feature - Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin is a common skin condition.  Genetically, sensitive skin is actually thinner, with blood vessels and nerve endings closer to the surface, that is more reactive to stimulants and irritants.

Sensitive skin can also be acquired, usually from the overuse of cleansers, exfoliants, or peels that strip the epidermis of barrier lipids that normally protect the skin from irritant inflammation.

Sensitive skin:

·      Can develop hives easily

·      Has subjective symptoms of stinging and burning easily

·      Is often reactive to fragrance and essential oils

·      Is sensitive to heat and cold

·      May often have a form of rosacea

·      Reacts quickly to stimulating products

·      Reddens quickly and easily

So, here’s a go-to list of dos and don’ts for truly sensitive skin -

DON’T strip the skin. It is best to use only nonfoaming or low-foaming cleansers.

DO use ingredients that support the barrier function. Restoring the barrier function of the       epidermis greatly reduces redness issues.

DON’T expose sensitive skin to heat sources, including the sun. Heat causes vasodilation, increasing blood flow and redness.

DO cool and soothe redness-prone skin.

DON’T use scratchy mechanical exfoliants like scrubs, especially ones with rough granules.

DO use products that contain calming agents that can help reduce redness. These ingredients include allantoin, aloe, bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizate (from licorice root), green tea extracts, matricaria extract, and sea whip extract. Newer peptides like acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, dipeptide-2, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 also help to lessen redness.

DON’T use products that contain known sensitizers or common allergens. Fragrance is one of the main causes of cosmetic allergy.

DO keep the skin well moisturized. Dry skin has been documented to produce inflammatory reactions. Choose fragrance-free moisturizers that contain ingredients like sodium hyaluronate, glycerin, sodium PCA, and seaweed extracts that help the skin stay well hydrated.

DO use daily sunscreen specifically developed for sensitive skin. These sunscreens may also contain good moisturizing and soothing agents.

Source; Handle With Care, The Do’s and Don’ts for Handling Sensitive Skin by Mark Lees, Skin Deep Magazine, March/April 2016, Associated Skin Care Professionals

February Feature - Why Does My Skin Look 'Dull' and/or 'Dirty'?

Dead skin cells build up on the surface of the skin, thickening
its appearance. This buildup can make wrinkles and
imperfections look much worse, and can cause the skin to have
a 'dull' look. As cells accumulate on the sides of wrinkles or
depressed scars, those areas can look deeper than they really are.
Also, when triggered or stimulated by trauma, skin cells may be “injected” with melanin. If uniform, this will appear as a tan on the skin surface. Or with repeated stimulation, or trauma such as sun exposure, will make the skin look muddy or splotchy. The groups of stained cells may appear as age-related freckles, hyper-pigmented (or 'dirty') splotches, or in the form of a pregnancy mask in the case of melasma.

We can correct this!! Call me for your consultation and treatment... 678-523-9678